Alamos-A Colonial Gem

Alamos - A Colonial Gem

To reach Alamos by vehicle is easy but because it requires a 50 kilometre diversion from Mexico Highway 15, the main Pacific Coast highway it is often overlooked. All travellers need to do is take the well-signposted turn-off in the town of Navojoa, and, after a 45 minute journey on the newly widened and re-paved highway, one arrives at this architectural gem of Colonial Mexico.

It is a thriving town mainly because of the influx of money generated by the gringo residents, yet it seems that most locals - both gringo and Mexican alike - don't want to have their lives spoiled by being overrun by too many visitors. The answer to this dilema used to be the poorly maintained paved road linking Alamos to the outside world, but now the road is so good that it has become a regular stopover for tourists on the popular Arizona based "San Carlos/ Copper Canyon/ Chihuahua" bus excursions.

Nestled in the foothills of the Sierras at an elevation of 1346 feet, Alamos is isolated from the rest of Mexico except for the paved road and a 4000 foot paved landing strip (many residents fly in on their own small aircraft). It wasn't always so. As a major silver mining town the Camino Real ran through here and one can still see traces of the cobblestone pavement on the dirt road that extends south and east of the town. Once the silver ran out the road fell into disrepair and Alamos effectively became the end of the road. But beautiful haciendas had been built by local magnates during the boom times and these combined with its beauty, tranquility and isolation attracted the first gringo inhabitants over 50 years ago.

It was the nature of these new settlers that is as interesting as the town itself. They were an elite mixture of wealthy families and familiar names from the entertainment industry. One large hacienda for example is still called the "Hershey House" while other homes were the former residences of Mary Astor and Carroll O'Connor. Many of these houses and haciendas have become small inns and hotels. The former home of Maria Felix, for example is now the Casa de Maria Felix. Maria who? Imagine that you grew up in Mexico in the 1950's instead of the US or Canada and you wouldn't need to ask. She was Latin America's Marilyn Monroe! Lynda de Barones, the Canadian proprietor of the Casa found the property abandoned and the buildings in ruins. She painstakingly rebuilt it, following the original floor plans and today it is a small inn with 6 elegant suites and a small museum devoted to Maria Felix's memory. It offers the same facilities as most of the other up-market inns in Alamos: a colonial ambience where on can bathe in the swimming pool or relax in a flower-filled garden.

Right across the street is La Puerta Roja Inn. This four room inn is run by American expatriate Teri Arnold. Here the speciality is the cuisine, (Teri is a well known food expert and chef in the States). Her lunches are deservedly popular among locals and guests alike - a "must do" in Alamos.

Closer to the heart of the town are a number of larger hostelries including the ultra-elegant and ultra-expensive Hacienda de los Santos. This once small inn has been transformed into one of the special places to stay in all of Mexico. The extensive walled grounds incorporate a first-rate spa, requisite swimming pool, extensive garden a formal dining room, a comprehensively stocked tequila bar and even a small theatre.

The less expensive Casa de los Tesoros is housed in 3 separate historic buildings including a 236 year old restored convent. It has become a meeting point for residents and guests especially in the evening around the bar where a quartet of musicians play nightly. Owner, Suzanne Chartrand, has also runs La Mansion and Casa Encantada - all within a stone's throw of each other and the central plaza.

If you are one of the many people who having visited Alamos are tempted to return and stay longer there are a few realtors you can consult including Fraser & Pratt Real Estate, Alamos Realty and the recently opened Coldwell-Banker office. All house prices in Mexico soared during 2005 and Alamos was no exception, but prices are still reasonable here compared to other expatriate enclaves and long-term winter rentals are popular. You may be lucky and purchase or rent one of the 188 buildings the President of Mexico designated as National Historic Monuments in 2000. Recently, the Federal Government named Alamos as a 'Pueblo Magico' which, among other things, includes important funding for continued historical preservation.

The current population is estimated at 10,000 of which less than 10% are foreigners. Their numbers however underestimate their significance and they swell daily throughout the winter as tourists make their presence felt. In May, as temperatures rise and tourism virtually stops - many gringo residents return to cooler climes. It is then that Alamos returns to being a true Mexican town and, the remaining residents claim, is at its nicest. Ironically, this summer tranquility is threatened by the recent opening of nearby gold, silver and copper mines which, of course, operate year round. So the source of Alamos's wealth - mining - is back pumping money into the town even if its overall effect on the town's economy is comparitively small compared to 200 years ago!

Finally, no story on Alamos is complete without mentioning what was for years the town's only claim to fame: the home of the Mexican Jumping Bean!