mexico travel, travel in mexico, visiting mexico, retiring in mexico, magazine about mexico
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Tropic of Cancer Beach Club, Troncones
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Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo The two towns sit side by side not only separated by a coastal headland but by history. Whereas Zihuatanejo was founded centuries ago, Ixtapa was conceived and designed in the 1970's and 1980's by Mexican Government planners and tourism experts. Sitting in front of their computers, they selected sites for new resort areas that would not only complement Mexico's traditional holiday destinations such as Acapulco, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta but compete with the new vacation hot spots in Hawaii and the Caribbean - which were already attracting North Americans' tourist dollars away from Mexico. Today the jewels in the crown of this planning are the highly successful resorts of Cancun and Los Cabos. Ixtapa enjoyed similar initial success but, for whatever reason, was unable to sustain the same growth rates as Los Cabos and Cancun and so international investors concentrated their mega-dollar investments in these two mega-resorts. This, ironically, was a saviour for Ixtapa. While charter flights still brought planeloads of holiday makers every week to fill the Ixtapa's high-rise hotels, that dreadful sense of being crowded out by fellow holidaymakers was thankfully absent. This meant a loyal repeat clientele was established that sustained the tourist trade but did not ovewhelm the infrastructure. Today, nearly 30 years later the small fishing village of Zihuatanejo is no longer small - new housing and small business developments stretch out along the highway that lies well inland of the ocean and new hotels and condominiums dot the shoreline of the bay. Despite this expansion Zihuatanejo's essence has changed little. Ixtapa has also grown. It's shoreline is more crowded now - with the addition of a few more hotels and condominiums - but they are still spaced far enough apart so as not to give the impression (unlike Cancun) of an unremmitting concrete barrier to the ocean. The new construction has certainly had no effect on the spectacular sunsets! Ixtapa's changes are as much cosmetic as developmental. Most of the hotels line the Playa del Palmar reminescent of centurions guarding the resort from the Pacific Ocean. Now their numbers have doubled to about fifteen hotels and condo high-rises that effectively complete the phalanx. Immediately south of this main strip is the small bay of Vista Hermosa where the architecturally stunning Camino Las Brisas Hotel still sits in isolated majesty on its own beach, but today the road extends past the hotel to new residencial developments on the headlands and bays to the south. The main area for expansion, however, is the coastal area to the north of Ixtapa Marina and it's 18 hole golf course. Here, after driving through an ecological zone you return to the coast at the playas Quieta and Linda where you will find two all-inclusive resorts that were among Ixtapa's first properties: Club Med and Qualton Club. They have stood here relatively undisturbed for twenty years but now other developers have moved in including Melia Hotels and a number of other attractive and generally upscale vacation, housing and resort developments. These upscale developments will only increase Ixtapa's appeal to a wealthier tourist and resident clientele. For, although Zihuatanejo has long been a favourite snowbird and retirement destination for North Americans, Ixtapa has its adherents too. They are attracted by its pristine, well-planned and well-maintained ambience. In total contrast to Zihuatanejo's confusing streets and bustle so typical of a thriving Mexican port/resort, Ixtapa has a manicured look reminiscent of a wealthy suburb where tropical foliage and tree-lined, wide curving boulevards soften the view. The major hotels provide most of the "action" (especially now that they generally cater to "all inclusive vacations"), leaving much of the entertainment venues in the mix of small shopping malls to the residents and medium and long stay visitors in the nearby low-rise condos and private homes. Most of the housing developments are situated behind the hotel strip surrounding Ixtapa's two 18 hole golf courses, but two occupy sites right on the beach - acting like bookends to the hotels. The condos and townhouses surrounding the Marina are particularly attractive and many are for rent or sale. To many North Americans, Ixtapa's golf courses, marinas and manicured perfection are preferable to the admittedly more popular retirement choice of Zihuatanejo where a "real" Mexican flavour attracts "mexicophiles". For realtors the contrasting nature of the two centres is a real plus. They have listings and rentals in both centres as well as in the "hot" new desinations of nearby Troncones, Saladitas and Barra de Potisi. Between them they can usually find that special something for any serious buyer. For short term vacations Ixtapa has the edge in sheer number of rooms and large international hotels offering standards, services and facilities one would expect in Toronto, New York or Los Angeles. But for those seeking a choice of unique, smaller hotels and bed & breakfasts Zihuatanejo holds the candle. From old standbys such as the inexpensive charm of Bungalows Pacificos, and the moderately priced Casa Sun & Moon and Catalina Beach Resort through to the informal luxury of the world-famous Villa del Sol, Zihuatanejo can be said to have accommodation for every taste at every price range. In addition the nearby, but isolated, coastal 'villages' of Troncones and Barra de Potosi also have a similar range of small guest houses, inns and boutique hotels that cater to vacationers who really do want to get away from it all! From my observations many 'Zihua-philes' are somewhat dismissive of Ixtapa while 'Ixtapa-philes' prefer to live in "suburban residential bliss" and love the fact that "the real Mexico" is just 5 minutes away. Meanwhile residents of Troncones and Barra de Potosi think anybody is crazy to choose Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo over their community! As the area evolves so do the choices and that is why it will remain a favourite destination for many North Americans.
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